Susan Boyle – what photographers can learn from her

31 05 2009

See Susan Boyle at Britain’s got talent.
Just a reminder for photographers.

No matter what you’ve got in your camera bag, what editing software and techniques you use, there is only one thing that counts. Can your photo’s move people.
Photography is an art form; it is not about recording reality nor about megapixels or focal length. Just as music is not about microphones or glitter and glamor. Photography is about capturing people’s imagination, make them dream, amazed, wander, think.

Happy shooting.





Nikkor 50 mm AF-D F/1.8 review

29 05 2009

In this review I will take a look at my first lens I got (apart from the kitlens, Nikkor 18-55 F/3.5-5.6 VR). The lens is the Nikkor 50 mm AF-D F/1.8. As I have no other similar lenses to compare it with, I point you to other online resources who go in depth regarding quality etc:

I will focus on how this lens has worked for me.
To start off my body is the Nikon D60 which does not have an autofocus motor build in. This means that in order for autofocus to work the lens needs to have it. In this case the lens doesn’t so I don’t have autofocus. I knew this in advance but decided to took to risk. (It saved about €200). I found that after some practice working without autofocus is certainly possible. It takes some practice but it works fine. Important to note is that the body helps you in focusing. In the viewfinder the indicator which normally shows if the image is over or under exposed now shows weather you are in focus or not. If there are green bars left of the 0 point the focus is too close and if there are green bars on the right the focus is behind the metering point.

Thanks to the large maximum aperture (low F-number) you can easily play with shallow depth of field. (What is depth of field?) As an example at F/1.8 a subject 1.5 meters away has only 6 cm is in focus. At F/5.6 this is 20 cm. Another advantage of the large aperture is the ability to take well exposes pictures in low light conditions. I’ve used the lens to take family pictures inside without using a flash. Not using the build on flash results in better pictures in my opinions since they retain the natural light and no flash reflations etc.

Because it is a prime lens (a fixed focal length) the lens is very compact. The focal length of 50 mm is maybe not the ideal focal length. A wider focal length might be more useful for general photography, but the 50mm is very well suited for making portraits.
Dog portrait
F/1.8, iso 200, 1/200s

Recommendation:

I love having a fast prime lens. This lens is also very affordable. If you have more money to spend and have a D40 or D60 (without build in focus motor) you might want to take a look at the recently announced Nikkor AF-S 35mm F/1.8 or Sigma 30mm F/1.4.

Pros
* large maximum aperture
* compact
* inexpensive

Cons
* No autofocus on Nikon D40/D60





Quick tip: Which lens? check library

19 05 2009

A repeated question is “which (additional) lens should I buy?” Here is a tip for those of us beginning photographer not sure yet what kind of photographers they are.

Open your photo library. Look at your best photos. Pay attention to what focal length, which aperture etc is used. See if you can see a pattern and base your decision on what you found.

For example. If you have a lot of them at the maximum of your zoom range of your lens and you find yourself cropping them, a longer zoom seems like a good investment. If shallow depth of field is a pattern, a faster lens (What is a fast lens) is a good step.

This tip is of course only helpful if you already have a good amount of photos to sample from. If you don’t have a big library yet, it might be best to start building one first. If you are looking for your first lens, a zoom lens will do fine to start building your library.

Hope it helps you find your next lens. Happy shooting!





Nikon D60 review

17 05 2009

In this post I review the Nikon D60 DSLR. I do this with the question in mind how does it work for me as a photographer who is just starting as a serious amateur.
Before I start the review I will mention the why. Why did I buy a DSLR?
Why DSLR?
Before the Nikon D60 I had the Sony cybershot DSC-P93. A nice little point and shoot camera. Quality was ok, colours could be better but by and large ok. I was able to take good pictures with it so why buy a much less portable dSLR? The main reason for changing to an SLR for me was the increase in control over the picture. The Sony had a manual mode but it was crap to operate and very limited.

Nikon D60
To start off I want to point your to other reviews. I only have one DSLR and never had any other so I can’t compare it to other bodies. Here are two links of in depth reviews of the D60.

Secondly I should mention that I bought the kit meaning the body (camera) and the lens (Nikkor 18-55 VR) as a package. It is very convenient when you start out to buy the bundle, but important to keep in mind is that the lens has a much bigger impact on your photo’s than your body.. So if you have the choice between a cheap body and a better lens versus a cheap lens and better body, go for the better lens.
Related to this if you buy your first SLR it is important to consider the brand. The reason why this is important is that, if you want to increase your range as a photographer, you will need more lenses. And it is important to know that not all lenses fit on all camera’s! The safest brands are Nikon and Canon they have been around and have a large set of lenses and plenty of third party manufactures make lenses for Nikon or Canon bodies (Sigma, Tamron etc). Pick either brand and you’re fine.

My experiences with the camera are good. As an entry level camera is is nicely compact. The amount of control I gained by getting this camera compared to my previous one is enormous. It doesn’t fit into my pocket but it enables me to make better photo’s. Besides control over settings like aperture and shutter speed, the colour response in much better than from my point and shoot. Colours are more saturated and more detail in preserved. All in all I am very satisfied.

One thing to note is that this camera does not have an autofocus motor build in the body. This means that the lens has to have one in order for auto focus to work. Many lenses do (for Nikon lenses look for AF-S) but not all. I have one such lens Nikkor AF-D 50 mm F/1.8 which means I have to manually focus it. This is by no means impossibe and the camera does have a focusmeter build in to help you, however it requires some practice and is hard to do with moving objects.

One other huge improvement over my point and shoot is the ability to take pictures in darker surroundings without the use of flash. The camera can go up to ISO value Hi (1600) but significant noise is already present at ISO 800.

Conclusion
The Nikon D60 is working out very well for me. It is a great entry level camera very well suited to explore serious photography. I have hardly ever felt that the camera was limiting me in the pictures I wanted to make.

    pros

  • affordable
  • compact and light weight
    cons

  • Although it performs reasonably well in low light situations, it is not top of the class
  • requires lenses to have AF motor limiting the lenses you can use.




Preparation for a trip part 2: How?

15 05 2009

In a couple of weeks I’ll be making a short trip to Switzerland. No need to mention that I will be bringing my camera along. However since I am trying to improve my photography I should prepare myself to ensure that I’ll come home with stunning photo’s. So how to prepare?

In a number of posts I will highlight several aspects in my preparation. In this post I will focus on the how. e.g. How to make sure I can make the shots I want?

So I want to make photo’s of mountains
As I will be max one and a half day at one location and I also want to enjoy my holidays I can’t scout ahead. Or wait maybe I can! For offline scouting there is Google earth. Google earth has a 3d mode and can light the landscape according to the time of day. Exactly what I want to know.

Second of course is technique. How can I make great landscape pictures specifically of mountains. Since I am a new photographer with zero experience shooting mountains I could use some help. Fortunately there is this thing called the internet. Below I’ll put some links with some tips.

Now let’s hope I’ll bring back some nice photo’s.





Preparation for a trip: part 1, What?

10 05 2009

In a couple of weeks I’ll be making a short trip to Switzerland. No need to mention that I will be bringing my camera along. However since I am trying to improve my photography I should prepare myself to ensure that I’ll come home with stunning photo’s. So how to prepare?

In a number of posts I will highlight several aspects in my preparation. In this post I will focus on the subject. e.g. What to photograph?

Switzerland has a lot of things to offer, Mountains, culture, history, architecture. In short more than enough options. Since I live in the Netherlands, which is so flat you can fax it, the thing which triggers my imagination most is mountains.

So I want to go and photograph mountains, but that doesn’t entirely finish off the what question. There are many different kind of mountain images. Just type in mountain in Google image search. I use the Google image search to help me pre visualize what kind of photo I would like to make. In my case I am most moved by those pictures which help you feel the grandeur of the mountains with their own stories which remind me of the mountains in Tolkien etc. I would like to make photo’s which show that these mountains have a story to tell.

How to translate this into a picture. When I look at pictures I like I often see depth I have a feeling of the size and age of the mountains. In an online tutorial on www.jeffwignall.com it is explained what kind of elements help to create depth. If I want to create the illusion of depth I need to look for those elements. Another element which helps to create depth is shadow created by the mountains.
Conclusion
On my trip I’ll be looking to make photo’s of mountains. The photo’s should not be misplaced in a Tolkien kind story, so they should contain depth. Some sketches come to mind

  • A foreground object (shed, house, ..) with some sort of road or river leading the viewer into the mountain. The image is most strong when this is layered by haze or fog.
  • A very powerful image is a range of mountains reflected in a lake; it shows the full scale of the mountains
  • Whit sunrise or sun set the first part to be hit by the sunlight are the mountain peaks and while the sun is climbing through the sky, the shadows chase each other through the mountains.
  • Maybe a long time exposure of an after sunset sky with the first stars visible tracing their way on the sky

In the next post I will go into how to make this happen.








Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.