Everybody knows how an elephant looks like

7 10 2010

As mentioned in my previous post, I had the opportunity to listen to some great presentations at photokina. Today I want to share a lessons which resonated with me.

The lesson is to shoot tight. Fill the frame with what you want to show. This also helps to eliminate distracting objects in the background. Try to look for interesting details. The detail can be the fur or feathers of an animal, the eyes in a portrait, the brick in the wall  or  the tusk of an elephant, or ,as Johnathan  Scott put it during his presentation:  ”Everybody knows how an elephant looks like, you don’t need to have the whole elephant in the picture to make a picture of an elephant.”

Be sure to also check out this post on the subject at Photofocus.com.

Happy shooting!

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Photokina 2010

24 09 2010

Last thursday I had the pleasure to visit photokina in Köln, Germany.
Of course I was drooling over all the new gear and stuff like the Nikon D7000 etc. I was also one of the lucky ones to win a Blackrapid RS7. I’ll write you a review once I have used it a bit more. I also found a great solution for geotagging, unfortunately my own camera, the nikon d60, can’t handle gps input. But once I upgrade I’ll give it a shot. It simple adds a tiny bluetooth device to the camera which can be combined with any Bluetooth gps module. It  enters the geolocation directly in the image. Check it out at www.foolography.com
The best experience for me however was the ability to hear some top of the notch photographers talk about photography. I had the pleasure to watch a presentation by Jonathan and Angela Scott at the Canon booth and Vincent Versace at the Nikon booth.
One thing complete me baffled me. When, at the end of their presentations, they asked the audience for questions, hardly anybody did! I mean what on earth are you doing at a photography event with a camera around your neck if you think there is nothing you can learn from these great photographers. All the better for me as I could ask multiple questions. After the presentations I stayed behind and had the opportunity to talk to them and even to have Johnathan Scott look at my animal photos and give me some advice on how to improve. Having an iPad with your photos on it, is a great help here. I’ll share the lessons I learned In another post.
Johnathan Scott at Photokina 2010
So if you are listening to a presentation by a world renowned photographer and he is asking if there are any questions, ask! Anything. They don’t bite and you might learn something.
I had a great time at Photokina and could have easily stayed more days.

Happy shooting!





Learning photography at the movies

28 10 2009

Summer is over, cold and rainy day are here. When it’s raining cats and dogs outside you might want to leave the camera in the bag and watch a movie. This is however no reason to stop learning photography!

The techniques used by cinematographers are very similar to those used by photographers. Next time you watch a movie or TV try to pay attention to how the cinematographer is using photography concepts to enhance or influence the story being told.

Look at the use of
depth of field: what is in focus and what isn’t
composition, does the subject fill the frame?
focus: where is the focus?
brightness, is the scene dark or bright?
color, many colors or monochromatic?
shadows, are there shadows on the subjects face?
contrasts, does the scene contain much contrast
etc etc etc
Try to link the use of these things to what is happening in the story and what emotion is the movie maker trying to evoke. Remember that as photographer you are telling a story too!

Happy shooting!

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Zoo assignment results

19 09 2009

After some time taking care of other stuff its time to start writing again.
In assignment 3 I charged myself to go to the zoo and learn something about taking photographs of animals. On a saturday evening I set out and went to Beekse Bergen. The zoo is a safari zoo, meaning that the selection of animals is a lot smaller but the living space is a lot bigger.

Sharpness:
One of the biggest problems I found was to get the images sharp. The animals move but also if they don’t it is hard to get the right part in focus (the eyes)

Fence:
A defining property of a zoo is that the inhabitant are in cages or enclosed by fences. This makes photographing a little tricky especially because often there is still a distance between the fence and the zoo visitor (a moot or something like that). I found however that you can take pictures through a fence without problems. Since the fence is so much out of focus it won’t show up on your picture as such (you do see a distortion in the boekeh) The picture below is taken through a fence. The holes in the green fence were diamond shaped about 1.5 cm wide and I was about a meter from the fence.

Plexiglass:
I also took some pictures through plexiglass but those didn’t work out. The plexiglass was very dirty for all the kids touching it and those viewpoint were also very busy with people.

Bird show:
The zoo I visited held a bird show where they show a number of birds of prey. This gave a good opportunity to try to make pictures of flying birds. I found that my auto focus was not fast enough so what I did was focus on places close to where the bird was going to land or take off. I took many picture only a few where close to be correctly focused, so I still need more practice.

Taking photos of animals is great to do, but not easy. A zoo is a great way to practice and I will recommend doing it if you want to take pictures of aimals in the wild.

Happy shooting!

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Tip: Bring a notebook

12 08 2009

Bald Eagle

For my self set assignment to go to the zoo, I went to the zoo. To be precise the safari-park Beekse Bergen. Before I delve into I the things I learned there (which I will do in a later post), I wanted to share with you one tip which I wish I knew before going:

Bring a notebook.

I would have been so happy If I would have written down the name of the animals. Now my picture will bare the name “Bird” If you do know the name of the bird let me know in the comments…

Anyone knows the name of this bird?

Anyone knows the name of this bird?

This tip applies not only when going to the zoo. It is good practice to carry a small notebook with you. When you take pictures there is a lot more information than that what goes in the photo. You can write down things related to the circumstances like “taken just after heavy rain” or “incoming fog” or memo’s for yourself for future shoots “come back here in Autumn”. Hope this tip help you.

Happy shooting

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Sharpness (assignment 2 reults)

9 08 2009

In my second assignment I focused on sharpness; what it is and how it effects your photo’s. I set myself the ask to experiment with sharpness.

What causes unsharpness:
Unsharpness is when light from a single point arrives on multiple spots on the sensor (see also the segment on theory at the end. There are 3 causes for unsharpness:

  1. Focus. Any object not at the focus distance (S1 in the picture in the theory below) is out of focus and causes unsharpness
  2. Motion. If either you or the object moves during the time the shutter is open, the object will be projected on different places on the sensor.
  3. Lens deviation. The above theory applies to perfect lenses. Deviations in the exact shape of the lenses can cause light to travel on slightly different paths.. This is why expensive lenses are sharper. Much more effort goes into making the lenses as perfectly shaped as possible.

Effect of unsharpness on your image
First a very important point. We stated above that unsharpness comes from light from a single point arriving on different points on the sensor. This is only perceived as unsharp if your eye can see the difference. If those different points on the sensor are seen as one point by your eye, your image will be sharp. This relates sharpness to how your images are displayed. If you print or display them large, sharpness is a much bigger issue than if you print them on 4″x6″ or have a small version shared on facebook.
Now back to the effects of unsharpness on the image. Let’s look at the effect cause by cause

  1. Focus. unsharpness by objects which are out of focus give a very natural blur. Your eyes are used to this kind of blur. it is used to separate the thing which has your attention from the rest. This is why it is a very useful tool when you want to draw your public’s attention to something in your image, simply place that into focus. An image which has noting correctly in focus will seem odd, you are easily distracted. In the two images below the focus is slightly different one is on the face and the other slightly behind the face. (click on the image for a larger version)
    Focus on face
    Focus on the face (click to enlarge)
    Focus behind face
    Focus behind the face (click to enlarge)
  2. Motion. The one kind of sharpness you always want to avoid is camera shake. Motion blur by camera shake feel like dizzy. The motion blur induced by you being not completely steady. Whether you see camera shake in your images depends on the shutter speed and the focal length of you lens. The basic rule of thumb is to take the focal length of your lens (say 50mm). The longest time your shutter can be safely open is 1/(focal length). So for 50mm it would be 1/50th of a second, for 200mm 1/200th of a second. Some factors modify that safe shutter speed. Image stabilization will allow lower shutter speeds (for 50mm it might go as low as 1/13th).
    Without VR
    Without VR (image stabilization), (click to enlarge)
    With VR
    With VR, (click to enlarge)
    Motion blur can be a tool when you want to relay motion in the image.
  3. Lens (optics) This one is the least noticeable, but when sufficiently enlarged you can see it. Below I used my prime (50mm F/1.8) and kit lens (18-55 F/3.6-5.6) both at 50mm and F/5.6. The idea is that both the prime itself is a sharper lens and that at F/5.6 the prime lens is closer to its sharpest F/stop than the zoom is. (Lenses are less sharp at their maximum and minimum F number). The image is a small detail. When you look at the whole image is is not noticeable.
    prime
    Prime lens (click to enlarge)
    kit lens
    Kit Lens (click to enlarge)

Well this turned out a lengthy post I hope it was useful to you as it was to me learning all about sharpness.

Happy shooting!

Some theory: what is (un)sharpness?

Your lens is, eh well, a lens (actually a whole array of lenses but that is beside the point). A lens projects an image on a surface.

Lense workings (Creative Commons image)

Lens workings (Creative Commons image)

The red lines in the picture are the paths light is traveling upon towards your camera. (note that the paths shown are not all paths there are many more going in between the red lines) Your camera sensor would be the green arrow at S2. That is if your image is in focus. So if the image is in focus (sharp!) all the light paths from the object arrive on your camera sensor on the exact same spot. Now imagine the sensor moving a bit closer to the lens (so a bit to the left of the green line). You see now that the light paths arrive at different places on the sensor. The object is now smeared over a small area on the sensor. In your image the object is blurred or not sharp.
Note that when you focus effectively what your camera/lens is doing is changing the distance between the lens and the sensor

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Learning photography: assignment 3: Zoo

8 08 2009

The results of assignment 2 are almost up, time for the next one.
In this assignment I try to learn something about taking photos of animals. As wild animals are A hard to find in the Netherlands, and B harder to photograph I will start by photographing animals who are used to human presence e.g.  in a zoo.
Task: Go to the zoo and take some pictures

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Tip: Ignore aspect ratio’s

2 08 2009


Beach houses on Texelby Peter Tennekes

One of the most important and easy editing tool you have is cropping. Most people stick to the standard 4:3 (or 3:2) aspect ratio (often a check-box ‘constrict to master aspect ratio’ or something like this). This is not needed. You should pick the crop which works best for the image at hand. Your photo is an artistic expression and shouldn’t be limited by some arbitrary standard.
Things to take into consideration are getting rid of distractions, overall composition (like Rule of Thirds), good color balance etc.
The argument for sticking to the ratio is the standard photo paper sizes. Most images live on the web nowadays and never get printed. And when you do want to print, you can easily add borders to fit it to the paper.

Happy shooting (and cropping)

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Learning photography: assignment 2 sharp

15 07 2009

If you read about photography, you’ll often read sharper this or that. How to get sharper pictures that this is a sharp lens. In this assignment I want to explore sharpness in photo’s. How do you see sharpness in a photo? How does it influence the photo as a whole? How can you influence sharpness? How does it relate to focus etc etc.

Task: Experiment with sharpness

In about a week or two I’ll share with you what I’ve learned. If you are learning with me let me know what you’ve learned by adding it in the comments.

Happy shooting!

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Learning photography, results assignment 1: light

11 07 2009

In a post two weeks ago I set myself an assignment:

Task: take a subject easy to reach and take many pictures of it at different times of day, so from dawn till dusk. Compare the results and see how the subject changes.

Here is the result of that assignment and what lessons I’ve learned from it.

I started out this assignment with the knowledge that light is important and that the best time of day to shoot is around the hours of sunset and sunrise. If you are anything like me, this kind of knowledge only really sinks in after you’ve seen it with your own eyes. I took photos of a leaf covered chimney which is visible from my apartment. The pictures are taken with the same camera and without any level adjustments. I will draw your attention to some aspects which got mine. Click the images to get a larger version. With each picture I added the RGB histogram. (click here to read about histograms) So without further ado, here we go:

06histogram1

This image is taken about 1 hour after sunrise. It has a lot of details in the leaves. The histogram shows a bit of blue being washed out, but all in all fairly balanced.

09histogram2
This image is taken about 4 hours after sunrise. Notice the vibrancy of the colours. Morning sky is in general more clear. There is however less detail in the leaves, it looks a bit more like a green blanket rather than individual leaves. This is also because the sunlit part is lit from the frot as opposed to lit from the side.

11histogram3
We are now 6 hours after sunrise. The contrast between the sky and object start to increase, and detail start to be lost. Also notice that due to the fact that the sun has turned. The light comes more from the sides. This reveals some relief in the leafcover.

histogram3half
Seven hours after sunrise closing in on midday. Notice how the left peak in the histogram (the object) start to be very narrow. This means less detail. Compared to the previous image the shadow side of the chimney has darkened (or the sunlit side and the sky have brightened).

histogram4
Midday. Out is the detail and the blue sky is the same go. The histograms shows a narrow band on both sides. In short not a great time to take pictures.

histogram5
Now we are moving to sunset. This is about 3 hours before. The detail is coming back. Notice also that due to the sun from the side, relief in the leaf cover is very visible. This is a great property if you are taking pictures of mountains; a sun from the side of the mountain will reveal substructures on mountains (smaller peaks, grooves, ridges etc.)

histogram6
One hour before sunset. The blue in the sky is back and shadow side becomes brighter.

histogram7
Half an hour after sunset. The sky is still fairly bright. The whole picture has a bluish look. This is also because the west north-western sky is blocked by a building. This means that the much redder light from the western sky is not reaching the chimney. I think that is there was no building there, the picture would look redder.

histogram8
Past midnight. Sun is gone and the moon is up. The bright stripes in the sky are stars, making their progression through the night sky.

Summary
This assignment made it very visual to me how the different kinds of sunlight at different time of day affect an photo. Remember that the photos above are all of the same thing, with the same camera and from the same position, the only thing that changed was the sun! One thing I also learned was that a morning looks different than an evening and it might very well be worthwhile waking up early to take some photos.

  • Both the direction, colour and strength of sunlight determine how a picture looks
  • Sun from the side reveals relief in the surface
  • Morning brings out more vibrant colours.
  • Midday creates large contrasts between lit and shaded areas and a lot of detail is lost.

Hope this was useful to you and let me know if you have any additions or comments in the comment section. Happy shooting!

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